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Upgrading my PC Case
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Posted by: Intendere
My current PC case sounds like a tornado and doesn't allow for much room for upgrade as it's a mid-tower. I want to get the Antec P180.
The problem is, I'm a dummy when it comes to building a computer. I'm scared I'd make a mess and wreck my hardware as the amount of wires etc is overwhelming to some degree. I think I'd be able to cope with the proper instructions as I am a pretty good intruction follower AS LONG AS THE INSTRUCTIONS ARE GOOD. Should I have difficulty?
Can someone tell me the key things I need to pay attention to when moving hardware from one PC case to another?
Are their any sizing issues I should make sure of or is the P180 going to be able to fit pretty much anything and everything in it?
Can someone post a thread or give me info on changing the hardware over to a case like the P180?
My signature should provide some info on some of the hardware I currently have but if you want more info, just ask?
Thanks, guys!
Posted by: P0nix
As long as the case your using is standard atx case than any atx case should do. They all have posts for your motherboard wether it is microatx or atx. In other words, the case should work - the hardest part is unplugging your motherboard, unscrewing it, and getting it into the next case. Much care should be taken and what I do is actually pull the board up by the heatsink so as not to damage the motherboard.
Hope this helps.
Posted by: goranpaa
The Antec P180B is a good choise. And if you wanna have some extra push for the intake of air,?
Then get a Scythe fan like this. And mount it in front of the upper HD cage, using the included spring clips. A word of warning. Do not buy the older "SPCR" version. This have a virualy worthless "VGA fan duct" for the videocard. Get the P180B. That is the latest version.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16835185028
You also have a hd cage in the lower wind tunnel that is the best placement for the HD(s).
Make sure you have sufficently long cables from the powersupply ( I.e. as long as you possible can get them)! Also eventual IDE or SATA cables should be as long as possible. 36# is a good length for the HD cables. For the Psu, you may need cable adapters for all the 4 pin Molex cables the 20 pin ATX power cable, the 4 pin CPU power cable and eventual 3 pin fan connectors.
If you feel unsure about the cables? Maybe it's better to get a new psu? Preferably Antec.
This is very flexible, as it will fit both Intel motherboards (20 + 4 pin ATX power connector and AMD 24 pin ATX).
This is a good and decently priced psu.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16817103937
This psu, is "Modular" wich means, you just attach the cables you actually is going to use for the moment. Will help reducing the cable clutter.
If the psu you are going to use, have a fan at the bottom? Then dont be alarmed when you see the mount for it at the lower wind tunnel. It do have a mount, that will allow the bottom fan in the psu to draw sufficient air from underneath even though it may appear pretty cramped at a first glance.
Also make sure that you jam the HD cables from the hd securely with the cable / ventilation hatch.
Othervice you may have the 120mm fan in that wind tunnel cutting those IDE cables.
The architechture of the P180 is very different from other cases. So take yourself good time to plan how you should arrange the cables to avoid cable clutter.
Also get some good thermal paste for the CPU, like "Arctic Silver Ceramique". This will improve the cooling and have a long life span.
Here is a building guide that pOnix and I have put together.
1. Make sure you are free from static electrisity before you touch any hardware.
The cheap but not 100% way: Grab a kitchen sink or a water tap.
The safest way: Get an antistaic wristrap with grounding cord. Costs about 5 - 6 bucks.
You can probably find it at Wal Mart, or for sure at newegg. Static electrisity, can even in small amounts kill your hardware.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16899888207
2.a) Now take out the case. If you look at the back of it. You will find a plate with holes for the different ports on the mobo. Usb port, game port audio connectors etc.
This plate is called the "I/O shield" or "connector grill". Remove this from the case (easy) And replace it with the I/O shield, that came with the motherboard bundle.
b) Install the Powersupply (PSU) If you bought the psu separatly?
3. Place the mobo on a piece of sprongue rubber about 2 - 5 cm thick.
This is because you protect the mobo from beeing damaged. And because you may have to apply some force to get the heatsink locked to the mobo socket.
4. Now look at the mobo. Is there any screwholes that may be obstructed if you mount the heatsink now? Check around the cpu socket. If there is screwholes near the socket? Then you will have to wait until you get the mobo into the case. See No. 5 below.
Mounting the cpu.
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If there are'nt any obstructed screwholes? Then you begin mounting the CPU. If you look at the cpu socket. You will find a lever, that lock the cpu to the socket. Raise this. You will also find, if you look at the socket. There are some pin holes missing in one of the corners.
You have a corresponding marking at the cpu. So it's easy to see in what direction the cpu should go.
Ease the cpu down and press lightly with the finger tip on top of the cpu. Making sure that the cpu is all the way down into the socket. Lower the lever, until it locks the cpu.
Now, apply some thermal paste, about the size of a big rice grain in the centre of the cpu.
The pressure from the heatsink, will spread the paste for you. Just make sure that the heatsink sits straight on top of the cpu before you starts to fasten the heatsink.
Do not use any hard objects when locking the heatsink in place. Use you fingers. If you slip with a screw driver for ex. you can hit some components on the mobo. And I dont think I have to explain what can happend then?
Very important! Connect the cpu heatsink fan to the 3 pin "cpu fan connector" on the motherboard.
If you forget this. Your cpu will be toast in the matter of seconds after you have booted the pc.
5. With the case or the mobo bundle. You should have got some small pegs with screw in one end and a screw hole in the other. This is the "stand off pegs", that will keep your mobo from getting into contact with the case and shorten out the mobo.
Take out a piece of thin A4 paper, and a hard and thin tipped marker pen. Place the paper between the mobo and the sprongue rubber.
Then, mark every screwhole on the mobo, on the paper. Also line out the connectors on the mobo.
Remove the paper and place it, so the connector markings correspond with the I/O shield at the back of the case. Push the marker pen thru the markings on the paper and rub off some ink on the edge of the screwholes on the mobo.
remove the paper. Now you easily can spot where the standoff pegs should go.
This is the easiest way. Othervice, you will have to use the mobo as a template, trying to find out wich of the multiple pegholes in the case are the correct ones?
6. Fasten the mobo with the screws just thighten the screws slightly. Dont tighten them so hard you risk bending the mobo.
7. Now, connect the "ATX power connector. It is the largest connector from the psu. 20 pin for Intel systems and 24 pin for AMD.
Then mount the hardware. Consult the mobo and the hardware manuals. Connect the various connectors from the psu, harddrive(s), DVD / CD and eventually floppy.
And when you still are at it. Make sure you arrange the cables out of the way of the fans. Othervice, you risk having cables that will mess up the airflow thru the case.
8. Now, you have the last thing to connect. This is the cables, coming from the case to the mobo. I.e the power switch, the hd LED, reset button and power LED + case speaker.
Consult the motherboard manual for the configuration. Sometimes it can happend that the mobo manuals configuration and the cases cables does'nt match. Then unfortunatly, you have some puzzle to do.
9.. When you have finished the rig. And boot up for the very first time. Tap the "Delete key" at the very first screen you see. This will get you into BIOS.
Inside BIOS. Navigate, using the "arrow keys", to a menue called "Boot order".
There, you select the CD /DVD drive as "bootorder No 1. Save the setting. Drop your Windows cd into the drive and reformat the harddrive / install Windows.
When you are finished with the installation. First thing, install the "chipset driver" that came on the mobo cd.
This driver, you will have to install every time you reinstall Windows.
10. Install all the drivers for your hardware and the rest of the software.
11. Herueka!! Oh joy!! You are finished and can now enjoy your shining new buildt PC!
A word of warning here. Dont spill any champagne on the pc while celebrating!
POnix adds:
Where Goranpaa uses rubber, I am lazy and most often use an anti-static bag (which is mentioned most often in motherboard installation manuals.) In fact, most motherboards will come with a thin sheet of rubbery stuff that you can place underneath the motherboard while its on top of the anti-static bag to protect your motherboard.
It all starts on the motherboard, most times you won't have any screwholes that will be obstructed so feel free to follow the steps to insert the cpu (touching it by its edges so as not to mar it with your human-juice lol) Remove the tape covering the Thermal paste that arrives on your stock CPU heatsink that came with your cpu if you bought it retail, and then carefully place the heatsink on top of the cpu (minding any grooves that may be in the heatsink, make sure the "grooved part" is what lies on top of the plastic piece of the CPU socket. If you put it in the wrong way you will damage the cpu. For older heatsink assemblies it is most often necessary to use a SMALL flathead screwdriver to drive one end of the heatsink lever onto its plastic holder piece after having placed the other end onto the other holder piece. Most often you will see a small notch that seems as if it was meant to be pushed down by a small flathead screwdriver..... That's the final side to attach.
After you have motherboard + CPU + heatsink + heatsink fan connected to motherboard. Install your memory chips into the board. This should be all you need to see a POST. Of course, after you have installed the IO plate and the motherboard + cpu + memory into the case and attached the front panel Power SW so that you can turn the assembly on.
The rest are just peripherals.
Posted by: goranpaa
P.s The dimensions of the P180 is 21.3"(H) x 8.1"(W) x 19.9"(D).
This may give you an idea if the cables on your psu is sufficient lenght?
Here is also a picture of the inside of the P180, That somewhat shows why you need long cables.
Posted by: goranpaa
If you feel the P180 is a too tricky case to use? Then Antec Solo also is a good. slightly smaller than the P180 and quiet case, with a much easier layout. And I'm pretty sure you can use the psu you got as it is.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16811129018
Just add a 92mm fan like the Nexus fan in the link below. And you have nice case with silent operation and good airflow to work with.
http://www.endpcnoise.com/cgi-bin/e/std/sku=nexus92mm
The front fan, does'nt have to be especially powerful. The important thing is,that the exhaust fan(s) is the most powerful. This as it must be able to draw the air thru the case in a sufficient way. But if you want more intake power. Or just want extra cooling for the harddrive(s) if needed? You just get a second Nexus. There are 2 x 92mm fan monts in front of the Solo case.
If you wanna improve the airflow further in both the Solo or the P180.
Then seal the unnessisary "videodcard vent" with some duct tape or such . See included picture.
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